How much does LED TV repair cost in Kolkata?

It depends on the fault and the model. Software and port repairs are at the low end, backlight and power supply repairs in the middle, and panel replacement at the top. We give you a clear quote after diagnosis and nothing is done without your approval.

How long does an LCD or LED TV repair take?

Many repairs are completed within a few days once diagnosed. Jobs that need a specific part ordered take longer, and we tell you the timeline up front.

How do I fix an LED TV with sound but no picture myself?

First check the obvious: a different input, the picture settings, and whether a torch held close to the screen shows a faint image. If it does, the backlight has failed. That repair means opening the TV and handling the panel, which is easy to crack, so it is best left to a workshop.

Do you repair older LCD TVs?

Yes. Older LCD TVs use fluorescent CCFL backlights and inverter boards. We still repair them, alongside modern LED, QLED and OLED sets.

Blue Horizontal Line on a TV Screen: Causes and Fixes

A blue horizontal line on a TV screen is one of the most common complaints we get at the service centre, and one of the most misunderstood. Customers arrive having tried every picture setting, a factory reset, three HDMI cables and a software update, because that is what the first page of search results tells them to do. None of it helps, because a line that stays in the same place through every input and every menu is not a signal problem. It is a hardware fault, and in nine cases out of ten it is one of two parts. This guide explains how to tell which one, what each costs to repair in Kolkata, and when the honest answer is not to repair.

First, the ten-minute diagnosis you can do at home

Before anyone opens the back, these three checks tell you most of what a technician needs to know.

Does the line appear on the TV's own menu? Press the menu or settings button. If the blue line crosses the menu overlay too, the fault is inside the TV. Set-top boxes, cables and streaming sticks are cleared.
Is it one line or several, and is it fixed or moving? One thin line that never moves points to the panel. Several lines, lines that flicker, or lines that come and go with warm-up point to the T-con board or its connection.
Does pressing gently near the edge of the screen change it? With the TV on and a flat palm, press lightly on the bezel near where the line starts, never on the glass itself. If the line flickers or disappears, a flexible ribbon connection has lifted. That is the cheapest fault on this list.

Write down what you found. When you call a service centre, those three answers get you an accurate quote instead of a "we will see."

What a blue horizontal line actually is

An LED or LCD panel is driven by two sets of tiny driver circuits bonded to the glass: gate drivers along the sides, which switch each horizontal row on and off, and source drivers along the top or bottom, which set the colour of each column. A horizontal line means one gate row is stuck. If that row's pixels are being held with the blue sub-pixel on and red and green off, you see a blue line. A different stuck state gives a white, black, green or pink line. The colour tells you how it failed, not where.

The row is controlled through a chip-on-film strip bonded to the edge of the glass, which connects to the T-con (timing controller) board, which in turn gets its picture data from the main board. A fault anywhere along that chain can cause the line, but the odds are very different at each point.

Cause 1: a lifted ribbon or dirty connector (common, cheap)

The flat ribbon cables between the T-con board and the panel edge boards sit in small locking connectors. Heat cycling over years loosens them, and humidity in Kolkata does the rest. Symptoms: the line flickers, changes with temperature, or responds to the pressure test above.

The fix is to open the back, release the connector locks, clean the ribbon contacts with isopropyl alcohol on a lint-free swab, and reseat them. We also check the LVDS cable from the main board to the T-con. This is a 30-minute job and in our workshop it is charged as a basic service visit, typically 500 to 900 rupees including the home visit. Do not attempt this yourself unless you are comfortable with the panel's power being fully discharged and you have the correct size of connector; a torn ribbon turns a 700-rupee job into a panel replacement.

Cause 2: a failed T-con board (common, moderate)

The T-con board converts the picture signal into the row-by-row timing the panel needs. When a driver output on it fails, you can get horizontal lines, a double image, a solid colour wash, or a screen that is half normal and half noise. T-con faults more often produce several lines or a band than one clean line, but a single line is possible.

A technician confirms it by swapping in a known-good T-con for that panel model, or by measuring the panel voltages (VGH, VGL, VCOM) at the board's test points. A replacement T-con in Kolkata costs 1,200 to 3,500 rupees for most 32- to 55-inch Samsung, LG and Sony models, plus fitting, so a typical repair is 2,000 to 4,500 all in. It is a same-day job when the board is in stock. Our Samsung service page lists the series we stock boards for.

Cause 3: a failed gate driver on the panel (most common, expensive)

This is the one nobody wants to hear. If the line is single, sharp, in a fixed position, present from the moment the TV turns on, and does not change with pressure or temperature, the gate driver bonded to the glass for that row has failed. That bond is a few microns of conductive adhesive under a chip-on-film strip, and it is not serviceable in a normal workshop.

Options, honestly:

Replace the panel. A new panel costs 60 to 80 percent of a new TV of the same size. For anything under 50 inches it is almost never worth it. For a 65-inch or larger premium set bought in the last two years, sometimes it is.
Bypass the row. On some panels a technician can scrape the gate line at the edge and bridge past the failed driver with conductive paint, which recovers the row or turns a bright line into a barely visible dim one. Success is roughly 50 percent, it depends on the panel layout, and the fee is 1,500 to 3,000 rupees whether or not it holds. We offer it only after showing the customer what we are doing.
Live with it. A single thin line a few centimetres from the edge is annoying for a week and invisible after a month to most viewers. Many customers choose this once they know the alternatives.

Cause 4: the main board (uncommon)

A main board fault usually gives a frozen picture, no picture, no sound, or lines that scroll or change with the content. It rarely produces a fixed horizontal line. We test it last, by feeding the T-con a test pattern directly. Replacement main boards run 1,800 to 5,000 rupees depending on the model and whether the software needs to be flashed to match the panel.

Brand notes from the bench

Samsung 2017 to 2022 LED sets: ribbon connectors between T-con and panel are the usual suspect; a clean and reseat fixes a surprising share.
LG LED sets, particularly 43- and 49-inch: a single stuck row from a gate driver is more common than on other brands; see our LG service page for the series we see most.
Sony Bravia: T-con faults produce a vertical band more often than horizontal lines; a true horizontal line on a Sony usually means the panel.
Older Videocon and local brands: the T-con is often integrated with the panel driver board, so the choice is panel or nothing.

What it costs, and when not to repair

A rough guide for Kolkata in 2026, including the home visit and GST:

Diagnosis only: 300 to 500 rupees, adjusted against the repair.
Ribbon clean and reseat: 500 to 900.
T-con replacement: 2,000 to 4,500.
Gate-line bypass attempt: 1,500 to 3,000.
Panel replacement: 15,000 to 60,000 depending on size and brand.

Our rule for customers: if the repair is more than 40 percent of the price of an equivalent new TV, and the set is over five years old, buy new. For a line that turns out to be a panel fault on a 32- or 43-inch TV, that is almost always the answer, and we will say so on the phone rather than charge for a visit.

What not to do

Do not press on the glass. The pressure test is on the bezel, with a flat hand. Pressing the screen itself can crack the panel or create new lines.
Do not open the back with the TV plugged in, and wait several minutes after unplugging. Power boards hold charge.
Do not buy a T-con board online by guessing the part number from the TV model. T-con boards are matched to the panel, not the TV, and the panel code is printed on the panel itself, inside.
Do not pay for a "software fix" for a fixed line. Software cannot fix a stuck row.

If the line appeared after a fall, a knock to the frame or a tight wall bracket, say so when you call. A cracked gate driver from impact is a different conversation and is sometimes covered by accidental-damage insurance. For a plain-language overview of what is inside a flat-panel TV and which parts are user-serviceable, the repair guides at iFixit's television section are a fair reference, though most of the procedures there assume parts and tools a home user does not have.

For a Kolkata, Howrah or Hooghly address, book a visit with the three answers from the ten-minute diagnosis and the TV's model number from the back label, and we will quote before we come. If you want to understand how screen types differ before you decide on a repair, our LED vs LCD explainer covers the basics in plain terms.